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About Bensmc

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  • Location
    Australia NT
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
  1. Is the battery the right CCA? Is the earth leads and power wires secure on the battery/car/starter motor. Has the engine got oil. Is the new battery flat? Try and hit the starter motor with a wooden block or similar while someone is cranking it. Check the continuity of the coil and the between the two power and earth of the start motor. If all fails Push start it forever.
  2. Forged pistons and balancing

    I don't see the point on measuring a bore that I'm just going to end up boring out larger. If the bore was that out of spec, that I couldn't put 86.5mm pistons in because the bores were too big already. There would be some major piston slap happening on the standard pistons. Pistons had no scuffing on them, 3 out of the 4 pots had a decent amount of cross hatching visible but defiantly needed a tidy up. Crank was in spec, runout was fine. Just had some minor stains around it from poor oil changes. Bit of a lip from the rear main. The bearings were practically brand new, someone would almost say put them back In and reuse them. So based on the tear down, there should be nothing wrong with the tunnel, nor crank. The deck height was within spec but because I'm going to use a metal head gasket, I wanted a dead flat surface, so decking on head and block is a must for me. I have not yet crack tested the block or crank, iv never herd of standard sr20 crank cracking before under standard working conditions. . I have some flaw check that I will apply on it tomorrow. But I'm sure it will be fine.
  3. Forged pistons and balancing

    after hours of research, iv decided to get forged piston. Send the block and the head away to get decked. Block to suit oversized pistons and honed. Crank polished, balanced etc etc. one thing that I'm not 100% about is the bearing clearance of the mains and the rods. My idea was to purchase acl bearings with a standard bearing clearance. Apparently a stock sr20 bottom end car handle 350hp comfortably. :/ but there is a choice of .001" larger bearing clearance. Pretty big, most likely being for extreme racing conditions. But being a daily/track car. Standard would be more Appropriate and reliable. Correct?
  4. Forged pistons and balancing

    Fair enough. I got told something completely oppostie. I got told that when you buy forged pistons. You will give them to the machine/builder shop and the machinist would make the custom bore size suiting the piston depending on your application, eg, (drift, drag, street or daily) that makes things alot better. Well the bores are in really good nick suprisingly. The bearings had very little wear on them. Number 1 had next to no wear at all. With the engine just clicking over 190,000km.
  5. Forged pistons and balancing

    Lol, thanks for the tip. I'm going to reuse the rods, crank, balancer, flywheel and I'm replacing the clutch... So all in all, the forged pistons should be perfect just to be assembled and installed into the engine with any issue. Besides the machining that will need to be done for the oversize. I'm not expert of forged pistons, but when on opening the box of pistons do they come with a spec of how much bigger the bore needs to Be for expansion on the piston or is it all up to the machinist.
  6. Have you or know somebody that has forged pistons into an sr20det and not balanced it as a rotating assembly? Reason I ask is because I have my sr20 that had alot if km on it and I checked the ring gap. The ring gab is out of spec, but I did measure it with the old rings. Long story short, thinking of getting oversized forged pistons, but not sure if it needs To be balanced. Or spend the money and buy a new set of genuin rings and measure it, and if its within fsm I would run it. Car is going to be a daily driver, plus a couple of track days every year. Engine specs Td05-18g -19psi running all Supporting mods. Ring gap Specs out of fsm Top .0079 - .0118 inch limit .0154inch Bottom .0138 - .0197 inch limit .0232 Actual top .021 inch Bottom .025 inch
  7. I'm thinking plug on coolant temp sensor playing up. Corroded possibly, :/ maybe knock sensor
  8. Check and change oil every 10,000, couple of track days plus daily driving during those times. Haven't let me down yet.
  9. :/ that's annoying. I started to dismantle the head, took the rover covers off and found that the cams had really bad wear. So much wear that you could run your finger nail across the nose of the lobe and your nail would get caught.(might have explained the continues build up of metal on the mag plug) So power loss there. Removed the head and found number three cylinder had water rust around the bore. Suprisingly the bores all had cross hatching and next to no sign of piston slap. I was going to run the standard head gasket and bolts due to being told that oem head gasket is pretty good for the power im intending of running (I wanna make atleast 200kw) and it always gives me head room for tuning... head gasket going a weak point... Correct?
  10. JAPAN TRIP what to do?

    When you get to the airport go to a transport company called 'airport limousine' or something like that. It's a bus company that takes you to all the most common hotels. It's a cheap service and a taxi is very expensive during peak hours. It was going to cost about 180 - to 200$ from the airport to our hotel in Osaka. Says the taxi driver anyway.
  11. JAPAN TRIP what to do?

    Go to all the Upgarages you can.
  12. I'm 80% sure the head gasket blew due to the tune because it never had over heated once. Drifted it couple nights a week on 14psi with the standard engine setup with front mount, exhaust for ages. But then again, high km engine, more boost. Who knows.
  13. I didn't pay for the tune because it wasn't finished. Car heated up to quickly. Apprently it got one run in 4th gear and heated up and wouldn't cool back down again. I got told to drive it 'nicely', and 'not to give it a hard time' due to the state of the tune. The wast gate has a 15psi spring so can't go to standard boost.
  14. Long story short. Got my car tuned with new 650cc injectors z32 and a new td05-18g. Run it up on the dyno to config all upgrades, ran about 19psi through it and it blew a head gasket and over heated a few times. Wasn't fully tuned and leans out in some places of tuning ect. :/... Anyway. I figured I would rebuild it due to the engine having 190xxx km on it. How would use recommend running the engine in on a tune that you dont know weather its good for it or not. I was thinking let him just tune it, but I like to run things in hard. Run it in how you drive it.
  15. Blew a head gasket sr20det

    I shall do this. I'm still very suprised that the oem head gasket can handle that much power/boost. Thanks for the help everyone